Day 4 - Half Dome Ascent, Part 2

Saturday, June 9, 2007

After dreaming about bears all night but luckily not confronting any, I woke up at 5:45 and prepared to push for the top of half dome. I was on the trail at about 6:50 and at the base of the steep staircase leading up to the dome at about 8:15. From this point, it was some of the toughest hiking of my life. Again, it was like climbing a giant staircase, but above 8000’, so my lungs were really having to work. Eventually, the staircase fades away and it’s just a scramble up a steep granite face. At one point, I stopped because I wasn’t sure which way to go and didn’t want to take the quick way down by mistake. I waited on a hiker behind me, who didn’t find it any easier. Then, a third hiker passed both of us, quickly ascending the slope like some kind of mountain goat. I only mention him because he comes into play later.

Anyway, I made it up the granite slope, to the base of the final ascent: the cable-aided portion. I searched through the pile of old work gloves to find a pair that wasn’t too rotten. I looked up and saw mountain goat-man coming down. Now, I knew that he hadn’t already made it to the top, even as fast as he was. As he reached the bottom, I heard him say, “It’s so steep. It’s just not worth it.” Now, as you may or may not know, I am very afraid of heights, which begs the question, “What was I doing up there in the first place?” Well, seeing this guy turn around so close to the top, I had some misgivings as I started up the cables. It was incredibly steep and, frankly, I was terrified. All it would take would be losing your grip on the cables and you’re looking at almost certain death. I made it maybe halfway up before deciding I had to head down and regroup.

I was about halfway back to the bottom when I ran into a man who was probably about 50. I told him that I was on my way back down to rethink things. He told me he’d been up 6 times before and told me I could follow behind him and he’d talk me through it. It was kind of like in the movies when the air traffic controller talks a stewardess through landing the plane or a surgeon explains to a waiter how to do an appendectomy over the phone. He was asking me questions about where I work and I told him that I had worked for New Line Cinema for five years and was now about to start med school. Anyway, I stayed focus on the ground right in front of me, avoiding looking left or right, where it was clear how steep the slope really was.

Before long, we were at the top. It was worth it. After being tempted to give up so many times over the course of the two days, I felt a real sense of accomplishment making it to the top. The views were amazing, with straight dropoffs all around.

The hike down was a real slog and I was so happy to see my car at the trailhead, especially since it hadn’t been broken into by a bear. I was so exhausted by this point that I decided to forego the other hike I had considered and headed out of the overcrowded Yosemite Valley and started the drive to Monterey.

It’s amazing the variety of terrain in California. Since I left L.A. I’ve seen dense forests, jagged mountains, rolling hills and flat plains that could’ve passed for Kansas. Now, I’m at the coast, in Seaside, which is about 3 miles from Monterey. Tomorrow, I’ll be going to the Monterey Bay Aquarium. After spending the last four days in Naitonal Parks, it’ll be nice to have a more relaxed day.